Repairing a termite-infested load-bearing wooden post

ON JUNE 12, we learned that the wooden post inside our most weather-exposed pilaster is thoroughly infested with termites, resulting in significant damage. This is the same post that we have already treated twice in its bottom 2 feet for termites, both from the inside and the outside. But now we know that they have been active almost all the way to the top, at least on the outside. 

Jim Farasatpour, an experienced structural engineer, has examined the outside, and he believes that this post can be repaired for about $5000. (There is a small chance that it might need to be replaced, but we won’t know for sure until we actually set about to make the repair.) We believe that this repair effort can be made concurrently with the waterproofing project. It is essential, due to the post’s structural importance.

As a safety issue, our synagogue leadership considers this repair effort to be a high priority. 

Below the jump, this post outlines what that repair effort will involve.… 

When I first mentioned to Cam, our waterproofing contractor (Absolute Maintenance & Consulting), that we had found a thorough termite infestation in the post, he replied that his company could take care of repairing it, if we wanted. I haven’t pursued that offer with him because (1) he’s obviously preoccupied with getting the basic waterproofing work done, and he’s obviously in a hurry to move on to other jobs that are waiting; and (2) Jim has meanwhile been offering specific guidance about how the repair should be done.

Opening up the inside of the wall

My present plan is to engage Miguel Mendez, an independent plaster/drywall contractor with a general contractor’s license, which our (interior) painter will be using as a subcontractor for our plaster repair. 

Miguel’s Construction

323-304-1124 (texting preferred), contractor license 1021926 

He has already been on site twice, so he is somewhat familiar with our wall’s construction. He seems to be level-headed and cooperative. I haven’t called him yet, because as a courtesy, I first wanted to run the idea past Violet and Jim, who are the liaisons with our painting contractor. (I sent an email on 6/26.)

The basic task will be to cut open the inside of the south wall along the length of the post (36” wide, says Jim), so as to expose its back and sides. 

At the same time, however, we must refrain from damaging two delicate historic features on the wall: the Star of David and the horizontal rim. Therefore the cut should stop about a foot below the rim, and it should continue above the star. Possibly an area inside the star can be opened, as well, without damaging the star itself.

The vendor also needs to cut drywall pieces to fit as a temporary cover for the access holes, mainly for cosmetic reasons.

At the same time, I believe that we should make a similar set of cuts for the adjacent post (to the west), so as to double check its condition higher up, to confirm that we don’t have serious damage in that one, as well. The marginal cost of gaining this assurance will be small.

After the eventual repair of the infested post, we will need to close up the new access holes, presumably permanently. I am imagining that this task will become a change order in the forthcoming painting project. (I am assuming that this small project won’t unduly disturb our relations with the painter.) 

Alternatively, we might ask Miguel to do it separately, before the painting project begins in earnest, if the timing works out. 

Opening up the outside of the wall

As I understand this task, it is to make a V-shaped vertical saw cut along both sides of the post, 9” from the nearest edge of the post, to score the stucco without damaging the chicken wire. Then make a vertical slice in the chicken wire along the center of the post (or simply open it up if there is a seam), and peel it off outward and sideways from the post center—rolling it out on either side—to preserve the chicken wire, exposing a 9” opening on either side of the post. Then cover the openings with plastic sheeting.

Yesterday morning, I proposed to Cam that he undertake this task as a change order, whenever it best suits the waterproofing project’s timetable. (Jim said today that this would be okay with him, despite his preference to get all of the players and parts lined up beforehand.) I haven’t heard back yet.

Termite treatment

After making a site visit on 6/16, Jesus Tapia, our termite inspector, said that he could treat all 4 sides of the post (after we expose them as fully as possible), and apply two types of termiticide, in turn: Termidor foam (which is good for hidden infestations) and a borate spray (which repels future termites).

The termite company (Higgins) schedules treatments about 3 weeks in advance. The late summer is their busiest time of year. Cam also said that he could take care of termite treatment, but I haven’t pursued it with him.

In any case, the local treatments may not be able to reach and kill 100% of the termites. Ultimately it would still be prudent to tent and fumigate the building. (On that topic, see under “Termites” in this blog’s subject index.)

Steel jacket

Jim has consulted with a couple of colleagues who do a lot of post remediation work, to figure out the most effective, versatile, and economical approach to repair our damaged post. He then made this sketch for the repair plan.

The idea is to wrap the post inside a steel jacket that’s made of 4 pieces that are welded together in place.

Jim has asked David Ben-Ami, a metal fabricator who does work for synagogues, whether he would be interested in doing this work for us. I have also asked Rabbi Katzan whether his good friend Tom Farrage, a metal fabricator for fancy projects, would be interested in bidding. I haven’t heard back yet regarding the level of interest, in either case.

The fabricator needs to be asked in advance whether they are confident that they can get the metal pieces inside the wall on all 4 sides, and into place for the screwing and welding.

Wood planing

Jim thinks that after the post is as fully exposed as we can make it, it may well become evident that its damaged portions should be planed off (by a carpenter?), so that the jacket will press against solid wood.

Integration with waterproofing work

I have asked Cam twice about timing coordination: by when does this post need to be repaired, in order to not interfere with the rest of the waterproofing job? I have not gotten a clear answer. The coating should be applied this week; it will take a couple of weeks to cure before being water-tested.

Other considerations

• Jim mentioned that perhaps the jacket ought to be installed in such a way that it is loaded with some of the roof’s weight. This would require jacking up the roof above the post by 1/8”, installing the post, and then removing the jack. Of course, this measure is a delicate one — it risks making cracks in the various components of this old building. Jim told me on 6/21 that he will consult with a specialist in historic buildings, to avoid our cracking everything.

• Who will integrate the jacketed post with the rest of the wall? I.e., who will mount a plywood nailer on the face of the jacketed post, to be used as a backing for the chicken wire? Who will re-install the sistered framing lumber inside the wall, alongside the jacketed post? How will the two components be joined? Jim said that he knows a frame carpenter named Alex who might be induced to get involved.

• Who will close up the wall after the fabricator has installed the jacket? Presumably Cam on the outside (as a change order), and Miguel on the inside.

• Not to end on a depressing note, but if, upon exposing the post and probing its condition, it becomes evident that it is not salvageable, what is our contingency plan in the short term?