NEARLY ALL of the newly installed iron gates/fence on Main Street is double powder-coated. Its fabricated sections were all carted to an industrial-sized oven, where they were coated with a dry powdered plastic (much like toner in a laser printer) that was then baked on, for a durable finish.
That’s the best way to coat ferrous metal that sits near the ocean. Tougher than paint, it should last for a dozen years before rust starts to show through.
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| (As usual, click/tap on an image to enlarge it.) |
That being said, there are a few iron pieces that needed to be welded on site, and therefore could not be powder coated. Those pieces have been primed and painted. I.e., they are likely to start showing rust first, before the rest of the gates/fence does.
Below the jump, I provide documentation for those pieces, so that our maintenance staff can keep on eye on them. (I’ll also note the moving parts that will need periodic lubrication.)
Roller assembly
The rollers and their housing are welded to each fixed fence on both sides, at roughly eye level. (They guide the sliding gates past the fixed fence.) The rollers themselves are made of hard rubber, but their housing is painted metal.
Guide plate
These rectangular plates are welded near the top of the posts that stand in front of the center handrails. (They guide each sliding gate into place as it is closed, so that the gate’s latch will line up with its corresponding hole in the post.)
Lubrication
Moving parts will need to be oiled periodically:
• roller axles
• gates’ wheel axles
• sliding-gate latches• pedestrian gate hinges
• pedestrian gate closer.
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